Puppy Teething Timeline: Stages, Symptoms, and Relief

# Puppy Teething Timeline: Stages, Symptoms, and Relief

If you've ever reached down to pet your puppy and pulled your hand back with tiny puncture marks, or woken up to find your favorite shoe reduced to a sad collection of leather scraps, you've experienced the reality of puppy teething. Those needle-sharp baby teeth are no joke — and when they're coming in (or falling out), your puppy is dealing with genuine discomfort that drives them to chew on anything and everything within reach.

Understanding the teething timeline helps you know what to expect, when to worry, and how to help your puppy through a process that's uncomfortable but entirely normal.

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The Complete Puppy Teething Timeline

Birth to 2 Weeks: No Teeth

Puppies are born completely toothless. Their eyes are closed, their ear canals are sealed, and their primary nutrition comes from nursing. No teeth are needed — and the mother dog is grateful for that.

2–4 Weeks: First Teeth Emerge

The first teeth to appear are typically the **canine teeth** (the long, pointed ones at the front corners of the mouth), followed by the **incisors** (the small teeth at the very front). These emerge through the gums between **2 and 4 weeks of age**.

At this stage, puppies are still with their mother and littermates. The emergence of teeth is one of the signals that the weaning process can begin — partly because nursing becomes uncomfortable for the mother when those sharp little teeth arrive.

3–6 Weeks: Full Set of Deciduous (Baby) Teeth

By approximately **6 weeks**, most puppies have their complete set of **28 deciduous teeth** (also called baby teeth, primary teeth, or milk teeth):

• **12 incisors** (6 upper, 6 lower) — the small front teeth used for nibbling and grooming
• **4 canines** (2 upper, 2 lower) — the large, pointed "fang" teeth
• **12 premolars** (6 upper, 6 lower) — the teeth behind the canines, used for chewing

**Notably absent: molars.** Puppies don't get molars in their deciduous set. These only appear as permanent teeth later.

12–16 Weeks (3–4 Months): Baby Teeth Start Falling Out

This is when the real teething process begins from an owner's perspective. The **deciduous teeth start loosening and falling out** as the permanent teeth push up from below.

The typical order of replacement:

1. **Incisors** fall out first (around **12–16 weeks**) 2. **Canines** follow (around **16–20 weeks**) 3. **Premolars** are replaced next (around **16–24 weeks**) 4. **Molars** emerge for the first time (around **16–24 weeks**)

You may find tiny baby teeth on the floor, in their bed, or embedded in a chew toy. Many puppies swallow their baby teeth — this is completely harmless and very common. Don't be alarmed if you never find a single tooth.

4–6 Months: Peak Teething Discomfort

This is the **most intense teething period.** Multiple teeth are falling out and being replaced simultaneously. Your puppy's gums are swollen, sore, and itchy. This is when chewing behavior reaches its peak, and when owners often feel overwhelmed by the destruction.

During this phase:

• Gums may appear **red, swollen, or slightly bloody** — this is normal
• Your puppy may drool more than usual
• Appetite may temporarily decrease
• Chewing intensity increases dramatically
• You might notice a **slightly unpleasant breath odor** as teeth loosen and fall out

6–7 Months: Full Adult Dentition

By **6 to 7 months**, most puppies have their complete set of **42 permanent teeth**:

• **12 incisors** (6 upper, 6 lower)
• **4 canines** (2 upper, 2 lower)
• **16 premolars** (8 upper, 8 lower)
• **10 molars** (4 upper, 6 lower)

That's 14 more teeth than they had as puppies — and the molars at the back are significantly larger and stronger than anything in the deciduous set.

7–12 Months: Post-Teething Chewing

Even after all permanent teeth are in, puppies continue to chew enthusiastically for several more months. The permanent teeth are "settling" into the jaw, and chewing helps this process. Additionally, adolescent puppies simply enjoy chewing — it's mentally stimulating, stress-relieving, and satisfying.

**Don't expect chewing behavior to stop at 7 months just because teething is "done."** Most dogs don't fully moderate their chewing behavior until **12–18 months**, and many dogs remain enthusiastic chewers throughout their lives (which is fine — they just need appropriate outlets).

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Symptoms of Teething

Not sure if your puppy is teething? Here's what to watch for:

Common Symptoms

• **Increased chewing and mouthing** — this is the hallmark symptom. Your puppy will chew on furniture, shoes, hands, cords, baseboards, table legs, and anything else within reach.
• **Drooling** — more than usual, sometimes with slightly bloody saliva
• **Swollen, red gums** — particularly around the areas where new teeth are emerging
• **Slight bleeding from the gums** — small amounts are normal; heavy or persistent bleeding is not
• **Decreased appetite** — sore gums can make eating uncomfortable, especially with hard kibble
• **Mild irritability** — some puppies become grumpier, more nippy, or less patient during peak teething
• **Visible gaps** where teeth have fallen out but permanent teeth haven't fully emerged
• **"Double teeth"** — sometimes the permanent tooth comes in before the baby tooth falls out, creating a temporary double row. This usually resolves on its own within a few weeks.
• **Bad breath** — a slightly metallic or unpleasant smell during active tooth loss is normal

Symptoms That Are NOT Normal

• **Persistent heavy bleeding** from the gums
• **Refusal to eat for more than 24 hours**
• **Facial swelling** — especially if asymmetric
• **Fever or lethargy**
• **Retained baby teeth that persist beyond 7 months** (see section below)
• **Teeth coming in at odd angles** or appearing malformed
• **Pus or discharge** from the gums

Any of these warrant a veterinary visit.

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Appropriate Chew Toys for Teething Puppies

Providing the right chew outlets is your best defense against destructive chewing. The key properties of a good teething toy:

What to Look For

• **Soft enough to give under pressure** — you should be able to dent it with your thumbnail. Puppy teeth are not as strong as adult teeth, and too-hard toys can fracture deciduous teeth.
• **Freezable** — cold provides soothing relief for sore gums
• **Appropriately sized** — large enough that the puppy can't swallow it, small enough to be comfortable in their mouth
• **Durable but not indestructible** — if a toy is so hard it can't be chewed at all, it defeats the purpose

Recommended Teething Toys

• **Kong Puppy (the pink or blue ones):** Softer rubber than the classic red Kong, designed for puppy teeth. Fill with wet food and freeze for extended relief.
• **Nylabone Puppy Chews:** Softer than adult Nylabones, specifically designed for developing teeth.
• **Wet, frozen washcloths:** Tie a knot in a wet washcloth and freeze it. The cold soothes gums and the texture satisfies the chewing urge. Supervise to prevent ingestion of fabric fibers.
• **Rubber teething rings:** Many brands make rings designed for teething puppies. Freeze them for extra relief.
• **Braided rope toys:** The fibers "floss" between teeth and the texture is satisfying. Supervise to prevent ingestion of long strings.
• **West Paw Zogoflex puppy toys:** Made from a soft, durable material that's gentle on puppy teeth.

What NOT to Give

• **Ice cubes:** Despite common advice, hard ice cubes can crack deciduous teeth. If you want to use ice, crush it or offer ice chips instead.
• **Antlers and bones:** Far too hard for puppy teeth. These are adult dog chews and can fracture developing teeth. Even for adults, they're controversial.
• **Hard Nylabones (adult formulas):** Too hard for puppy teeth. Stick to the puppy-specific versions.
• **Rawhide:** Poses choking and gastrointestinal blockage risks. Many veterinarians advise against rawhide entirely.
• **Sticks from the yard:** Can splinter and cause mouth injuries or intestinal perforations.
• **Old shoes or clothing:** Teaching your puppy that shoes are chew toys is a lesson they'll apply to your good shoes too. Puppies can't distinguish between an "allowed" old shoe and your new running shoes.
• **Anything with small parts** that could break off and be swallowed

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Frozen Treats and Home Remedies for Teething Relief

Cold is your best friend during teething. It numbs sore gums and reduces inflammation. Here are safe, effective frozen treat options:

Frozen Kong Recipes

• **Basic:** Plug the small hole with peanut butter, fill with soaked kibble mixed with wet food, freeze for 4+ hours
• **Layered:** Alternate layers of yogurt (plain, unsweetened), mashed banana, and small treats. Freeze between layers.
• **Bone broth:** Fill a Kong with low-sodium bone broth (no onion or garlic) and freeze. Messy but extremely popular with puppies.

Other Frozen Options

• **Frozen carrot sticks:** Peel and freeze whole carrots. The cold soothes gums and the crunchy texture is satisfying. Too large to be a choking hazard for most puppies.
• **Frozen banana chunks:** Freeze sliced banana on a tray. High-value, cold, and soft enough for sore mouths.
• **Frozen blueberries:** Small enough to scatter on the floor for a sniffing-and-chewing activity.
• **Frozen watermelon cubes:** Seedless only. Hydrating and soothing.
• **Frozen wet food in silicone molds:** Spread wet food into silicone ice cube trays or lick mats and freeze. Low-calorie options include pumpkin puree (plain, not pie filling) mixed with water.

Important Notes on Frozen Treats

• **Always supervise** your puppy with frozen treats to prevent choking
• **Account for treat calories** in your puppy's daily food intake. A frozen Kong loaded with peanut butter and cheese is not calorie-free.
• **Avoid xylitol** — this artificial sweetener is toxic to dogs. It's found in some peanut butters, yogurts, and other processed foods. Always check ingredient labels.
• **Limit dairy** if your puppy shows digestive sensitivity. Some puppies handle yogurt and cheese well; others get diarrhea.

PupCoach includes age-appropriate frozen treat recipes and chew toy recommendations that update as your puppy progresses through each teething stage. The app also helps you track which chew items your puppy prefers, so you can stock up on what actually works rather than wasting money on toys they ignore.

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Managing the Chewing

Even with perfect toy selection, your puppy will attempt to chew things they shouldn't. Here's how to manage it.

Puppy-Proofing

• **Get on the floor.** Literally. Crawl around at puppy level and identify everything within reach that could be chewed. Cords, shoes, remote controls, chair legs, rugs, houseplants — if a puppy can reach it, a puppy will chew it.
• **Use bitter apple spray** on furniture legs, baseboards, and other fixed items you can't move. Reapply frequently — it dissipates.
• **Pick up everything.** Shoes go in closets. Remotes go on high shelves. Cords get covered with cord protectors or taped to walls.
• **Use baby gates** to restrict access to rooms that aren't puppy-proofed.

The Redirect Method

When you catch your puppy chewing something inappropriate:

1. **Calmly interrupt** — a gentle "ah ah" or simply approaching is enough. Don't yell. 2. **Remove the item** (or remove the puppy from the item). 3. **Immediately offer an appropriate chew toy.** The goal is substitution, not just prohibition. 4. **Praise enthusiastically** when they take the appropriate toy.

The message: "Not that — this." Repeated consistently, this teaches your puppy what's chewable and what isn't.

What NOT to Do

• **Don't punish chewing after the fact.** If you come home and find a chewed shoe, the moment for correction has passed. Rubbing your puppy's nose in it, scolding them, or showing them the destroyed item teaches nothing — they can't connect your anger to something they did 3 hours ago.
• **Don't take away everything.** A puppy who has nothing to chew will find something to chew. Always have appropriate options available.
• **Don't expect them to just know.** Your puppy doesn't understand that the $200 shoe is off-limits but the $5 toy is fine. They're both chewable objects. It's your job to manage the environment and teach the distinction.

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Retained Baby Teeth: When to See the Vet

Normally, each baby tooth falls out before or as the corresponding permanent tooth emerges. Sometimes this process doesn't go as planned, and a baby tooth stays in place alongside the new permanent tooth. This is called a **retained deciduous tooth**.

Why Retained Teeth Are a Problem

• **Crowding:** Two teeth in the space meant for one causes misalignment of the permanent tooth
• **Food trapping:** The gap between the retained tooth and permanent tooth collects food debris, leading to accelerated tartar buildup and gum disease
• **Abnormal bite development:** Retained canines especially can force permanent canines into abnormal positions, affecting the puppy's bite
• **Pain and discomfort:** The retained root may not fully resorb, causing chronic irritation

When to Act

• If a baby tooth is still present when the **permanent tooth is fully erupted** beside it, consult your veterinarian
• Most veterinarians recommend extraction if a retained baby tooth persists beyond **7 months of age**
• **Canine teeth** are the most commonly retained, followed by incisors
• Extraction is typically done under anesthesia, often combined with a spay/neuter procedure to minimize the number of anesthesia events

Breed Predisposition

Retained deciduous teeth are more common in **small and toy breeds:**

• Chihuahuas
• Yorkshire Terriers
• Pomeranians
• Maltese
• Shih Tzus
• Italian Greyhounds

If you have a small breed puppy, your veterinarian should be checking for retained teeth at every wellness visit between 4 and 8 months. PupCoach sends breed-specific veterinary reminders at the appropriate ages, including prompts to ask your vet about retained teeth during the teething window.

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Breed Variations in Teething

While the general timeline applies to all breeds, there are notable variations:

Small Breeds - Tend to start teething **slightly later** (sometimes not losing baby teeth until 14–16 weeks) - Higher incidence of retained deciduous teeth - More prone to dental crowding due to small jaw size - May complete the teething process by **7–8 months**

Large and Giant Breeds - Often start the process earlier and move through it faster - Less prone to retained teeth - Need **larger chew toys** and may destroy standard puppy toys quickly - May continue heavy chewing longer due to extended adolescence

Brachycephalic Breeds (Flat-Faced) - Bulldogs, Pugs, Boston Terriers, Shih Tzus - More prone to dental misalignment due to shortened jaw structure - Higher rates of retained deciduous teeth - May need more frequent dental monitoring - More susceptible to overcrowding as permanent teeth come in

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Teething and Biting: Managing Needle-Sharp Puppy Teeth

Teething and biting go hand in hand — literally. During teething, your puppy's natural chewing drive increases at the same time they're learning about the world through their mouth. Your hands, arms, ankles, and clothing become chew targets.

Teaching Bite Inhibition

**Bite inhibition** — the ability to control the force of their mouth — is one of the most important skills your puppy can learn. It's more important than eliminating biting entirely, because a dog who can moderate their bite pressure is safer throughout their life.

**How to teach it:**

1. **When your puppy bites too hard**, yelp or say "ouch!" in a slightly higher pitch than normal. Don't scream — just a brief, clear signal. 2. **Immediately withdraw attention** — stop playing, turn away, fold your arms. For 10–15 seconds. 3. **Resume play.** If they bite hard again, withdraw attention again. 4. **Gradually raise the bar.** First, only yelp at hard bites. Once hard biting stops, respond to moderate bites. Then soft bites. 5. The end goal: a mouth that knows how to be gentle.

**If yelping excites the puppy** (some puppies get more aroused, not less), skip the yelp and simply withdraw silently.

Managing Teething-Related Nipping

• **Always have a toy in hand** when playing with your puppy. Redirect bites from your skin to the toy.
• **End play sessions** the moment teeth touch skin. Every single time. Consistency is everything.
• **Frozen chew toys before play** — a puppy with sore gums who has already been chewing on something cold is less likely to use your hand as a chew toy.
• **Avoid roughhousing** with your hands. Wrestling with a puppy teaches them that hands are play objects. Use toys as intermediaries.

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When to See the Vet About Teething

Schedule a veterinary visit if you notice any of the following:

• **Retained baby teeth** beyond 7 months
• **Heavy or persistent bleeding** from the gums (light bleeding during tooth loss is normal)
• **Facial swelling** or asymmetry
• **Reluctance to eat** lasting more than 24 hours
• **Teeth erupting in obviously wrong positions** (e.g., a lower canine poking into the upper palate)
• **Broken permanent teeth** — cracked or chipped adult teeth may need treatment to prevent infection
• **Persistent bad breath** beyond what's typical during teething — could indicate infection
• **Unusual lumps or growths** on the gums

Most puppies sail through teething without needing veterinary intervention beyond routine wellness checks. But when problems do occur, early detection makes treatment simpler and less costly.

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The Bottom Line

Puppy teething is a temporary but intense phase that every puppy owner goes through. It starts around **3–4 months**, peaks at **4–6 months**, and is largely complete by **7 months** — though chewing behavior continues well beyond that.

Your job during this period is straightforward: **provide appropriate chew outlets, manage the environment so your puppy can't access things you don't want destroyed, and be patient.** The needle-sharp baby teeth will be replaced by strong adult teeth, the obsessive chewing will gradually moderate, and the destroyed shoes will become funny stories you tell other puppy owners.

In the meantime, stock up on Kongs, keep your shoes in the closet, and remember that this, too, shall pass — probably in about three months.